The low bar, high peg, racer crouch is great on a racetrack, but impractical for the street. With similar power to supersports, only marginally less performance, and an upright seating position, these really are sportbikes for the road.
Determined simply by the size of the grin on your face after each ride, character is the X-factor that turns us into rambling idiots whenever we review one on video. Visit our Yamaha FZ Forum.
Well, now you can add another bike to that list, and this one comes from Japan: the Yamaha FZ However, other than the number of cylinders each bike has and the lack of any real bodywork, the FZ and XS are worlds apart. Read my Yamaha Triples Retrospective for comparisons between old and new. The march in time has been so great that Yamaha never once said a word about the XS or during the presentation of the new FZ. Read our Yamaha Triples retrospective.
Street riders, commuters and weekend riders alike want to feel as alive as they do on their supersports while getting through town. That means an open seating position with a torque-rich engine. And in this economy, an affordable price point means a lot, too. A clean-sheet design, the inline-Three was chosen for its torquey nature, slim dimensions and because Yamaha engineers understand Triples exude that magic ingredient: character.
A first for any production multi-cylinder Yamaha, the FZ cylinders are offset 5mm from the crank axis, meaning the crank pin is beginning its downward path when combustion occurs for less parasitic power loss. Bore and stroke measures The degree crankshaft means the FZ has an even degree firing order. A balancer shaft helps cancel vibes and serves double duty by running the water pump.
The four-valve cylinder head is an all-new design, with intake and exhaust valves measuring 31mm and 25mm, respectively.
Intake valve angle is set at 13 degrees, exhaust at Within the liter airbox, intake funnels are staggered with the first cylinder funnel at The airbox features a built-in resonator, because, well, a three-cylinder intake howl is worth amplifying.This gave me noticeably more torque in the low to mid RPMs, a smoother idle, and better throttle response — even without an ECU flash.
Yamaha quotes 75hp, which translates to 68hp on the rear wheel. After desperately trying to extract the original air box and ending up cutting it in half photo at the end of this post I arrived at the conclusion that Yamaha starts the assembly of the MT with the air box, and then builds the bike around it.
If you do want to remove the air box completely and replace it with clamp-on filters I recommend you do the same as me and cut it in half. Resources Ask Random. Remove the side fairings. Remove those ugly decorative plastics that hide the frame and shock. Disconnect the air box flanges from the throttle bodies. With a knife, cut off the flanges as close to the air box as possible.
Cover the throttle bodies with tape to prevent any debris from falling inside. Unscrew the two screws at the end of the air box which mount it to the frame. You should now have enough room to push the rear of the airbox down and insert a long, thin saw between the frame and the air box. Cut downwards in a straight line see photo at the end of this post. Disconnect the two hoses and unscrew the two cables from the air box. Remove the air box.
The hardest part is done.
Graves Motorsports Yamaha R1 + FZ1 Airbox Velocity Stack Kit
Its function is to alleviate pressure inside the cylinder head from the unavoidable blow-by inside the cylinder combustion gases leaking past piston rings. It is only routed back to the airbox for emission reasons. Simply reroute it to the bottom of the bike. A third alternative is a simple PCV valve.
I screwed the metal clamp holding the two cables to the right throttle body. Exhaust upgrade, ECU flash, power gains, and weight savings will follow soon. Facebook Tweet Mail. Shape Home Powered by Tumblr.Thought I would post my review of Hordes Airbox upgrade.
I am really, really pleased with the upgrade. I am going to be honest, I was a little disappointed after the exhaust and flash. I think my expectations may have been a bit high. The bike certainly felt better but I couldn't say that I felt the extra power. The bike seemed smoother and my mpg took a serious hit.
Before I resorted to such drastic measures I pulled the trigger on the intake upgrade. Installation wise, it is a mother to get the factory airbox out. I'm sure it is possible to remove it cleanly but I didn't have much luck. Since it was already scratched up I ended up just cutting it out. If I ever go back to stock I won't I'll need to purchase another airbox. Once the factory airbox was out, installing Hordes system was mostly straightforward. The tolerance on the mounting bracket could be better.
You need to be really careful not to cross thread bolts through the bracket. The bracket at least mine wanted to pitch the bolts up.
Horde should consider elongating these holes a little more before getting the bracket anodized. Once the airbox is in I went ahead and re-synced my throttle bodies. They were off quite a bit and I'm sure it was due to the airbox as I had just synced them a week or two ago as part of the 4k mile service.
If you go this route make sure you sync the TBs. The good news is with the airbox gone, getting at the vac lines is a piece of cake. With the airbox replaced with horde's setup it is literally a 5 minute job. This installation was done a good two weeks ago. Today the weather was warm enough 45f to get a ride in.
I have to say I am really really impressed. The bike now feels how I expected it to feel with just the exhaust and flash. I didn't realize the front wheel was floating until it touched pavement again in 4th gear. The bike feels fantastic. Logically the 4hp gain the intake therotically provided shouldn't have accounted for this much of a performance gain, but I can't otherwise explain it. Not sure but the whole bike woke up. I'll be hanging on to the bike now for a few more seasons I suspect.
I went straight from stock and my sentiments are the same although I didnt sync the TBs, seems just fine to me, I am also using a PC-V with Hords mapping. I dont know how else to say it but now the bike hauls ass, feels right smoother, engine braking is reduced Stay safe out there. Crush your enemies. See them driven before you. Hear the lamentations of their women.Besides getting orders, our supporting vendor program attaches ea forum vendor to the FZ in google search results as I pump a ton of SEO into the vendor boards.
Companies pay hundreds a month just for that alone. Click here to go "Ad Free"and get a ton of other perks! Also, I don't think that the airbox has any issues with water, I have never heard of anyone having issues. Using an OuterWear type filter cover will probably be a good safety barrier Mine's stock at the moment and I was deciding what to install That's how I looked at it I'll just add more bikes if I have to.
PCV vs. Doesn't sound like much of a change, but the FZ runs really well at cruise at And good mileage. OTOH a flash is nice because you can turn on decel fueling, and you don't have an extra box on the bike that could potentially fail. Although it's very rare a PCV goes bad. Just kinda depends on your situation, which to choose. Either will work fine. Intellectual rights issues. But I do give away PCV maps for free.
So this has probably been answered somewhere on the site can't find itbut does 2WDW have a flash for the Hord airbox? Or do you have to use Hord's flash? Hord is awesome to deal with, and is genuinely interested in helping folks open up their FZ's.
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The Yoshimura system has the pipe sticking out the side of the bike. If you run the OEM pegs that fold up in a crashyour looking at doing serious damage to your can If you use the Woodcraft or similar rear sets, you are better off, but IMO your are still taking on more risk of wrecking your can in a crash.This is the best result in driveability and power anywhere for this model - our proprietary software guarantees it!!
My programming for this model will blow away ANY ECU flash from any other company in both driveability and performance!! Yosh full system vs. Same day test This is due to "fuel cut" Upon re-application of the throttle, there is a delay before the system will start back up and re-wet the intake tract and combustion chamber In addition to the response problem, there is also one loud bang from out the exhaust that is usually heard when re-applying the throttle, after you change the exhaust.
Under these conditions, throttle response is much less than precise. The product will add as much as 10hp due to the sub-throttles opening at a faster rate as well as preventing the EFI system from shutting off under decel conditions. Combined with proper fuel and ignition mapping, this bike is transformed from a precarious ride under aggressive riding conditions to a perfectly smooth and predictable ride under any riding condition.
This product will make a marked improvement in any year fuel injected Yamaha FZ1 - because it eliminates the root cause of the abrupt throttle response - "Fuel Cut" and it also offers the advantage of a faster opening rate of the sub-throttles The fact is All Stock FZ-1 vs. Same with ignition module Modifying the airbox and adding a race type air filter will yield improvements starting at rpm with the proper fuel map.
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Still not satisfied with the throttle response, and wanting the bike to feel like an instantly responding cc bike like it should beI designed these new replacement sub-throttle plates These plates will put back the response that you are after All of the above mods vs.
All stock vs.I have read and theres some topics about previous gens reguarding air filter upgrades and cutting down the snorkel inside the airbox to improve air flow. I will be getting a Akro exhaust and ECU flash in the future, and am wondering, is this relevant or worth it for the Tracer GT?
I remember with my old muscle-cars after tossing on aftermarket exhaust and tuning the timing and carbs, opening up the air intake made a huge difference. I cut the snorkel after looking at the design and thinking it may smooth the airflow out. I suspect that any potential gains are too small to be detected by butt dyno.
Too add to this conversation This is also speaking in regards to a '15 and I am unaware if the new Tracers have this foam It performs really good for the criteria it's gotta meet If anything- remove the airbox and run some nice bellmouths with pod filters Will need to some decent tuning to do this For example running a pod filter on the FZ with Yoshi exhaust and tune netted a little over 10hp bump in power with nothing being loss down low vs a Akra exhaust and tune which netted the avg hp aftermarket exhaust bump but has a little power loss down low - both cost almost the same identical price I noticed a slightly improved throttle response and a little more power.
Before making the changes I would only have to watch the roll-on front wheel lift in first and once in second I could roll to full throttle quickly without worry of wheelies though the front end felt light.
It's otherwise stock with no ECU tune. I didn't get pictures of the air intake, but I cut the tube about halfway.
Then I cut it vertically to remove the half of the tube on the air filter side. The idea was to leave some backing to help pull air down into the box without the added turbulence of completely cutting off the tube. You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy! Already have an account? Sign in here.
Recommended Posts. Posted July 15, edited. Edited July 15, by Bimbim Share this post Link to post Share on other sites. Posted July 15, Red Tracer, UK spec well, it was until I started messing with it Posted July 16, Here is the post Posted July 16, edited.Has anyone removed the air box snorkel?
Curious to see if it has any better throttle response with everything stock. I haven't took delivery of mine yet, but that will be one of the first things I will try. Maybe someone who has their can advise, if the side vents are blocked off or do they lead anywhere. Is there a way to direct the vents to the snorkels? Most of them are to reduce noise.
I'd be curious to see detailed pics of the air box assembly. I'm sure there is room for improvement. If you allow more air to enter the engine If you have no fuel controller to add more gas, I took delivery of my bike about a week ago now, so I immediately investigated the air box snorkel.
I trimmed off that piece and reinstalled the snorkel I'm not recommending anybody to do this but it alleviates a small restriction in the air box.
To add to the discussion a little Removing a restriction is not equal to adding air. It's just making it easier for the motor to get air if it wants it. You're not ramming air down the motor's proverbial throat by removing the snorkel. I bought this recently so it should make quick work of shortening the inner tube if I choose to do that. I removed mine. Based on my experience with cars anywayI'm fairly certain it serves no other purpose aside from noise reduction. And my bike could use some extra airflow anyway to make up for the CO altitude.
Anyway, the bike sounds awesome with it removed. I tend to prefer intake noise over exhaust noise.